September 30, 2010

MANWITCH

No, this is not a post about sloppy joes. (Though it easily could have been one.)  This is an OFFICIAL Loveship collabo post between both Mike and Susie.

The internet is a confusing network of tubes.  But sometimes those tubes drop some crazy ass shit onto your lap and you just have to turn around and tell somebody.

WITNESS:



So, I (Mike) show Susie these images (via).

I (Susie) think we are looking at a womens collection and I'm all like ,"Thanks for sharing, boo. This shit is incredible! I love the minimalist Victorian witchery. So my steez."

Mike: This is a menswear blog.

OOOOH oh, I thought that woman had a pretty strong jawline... Moving on:
man mary-janes



THIS:

yes, please:

and thank you:




This is the S/S 2011 collection from Non. At this point our minds were pretty much blown. At first, it all seemed so new, and it is. But then you start to notice the influences, which range from Yohji Yamamoto, to Prada, to um, let's call it early aughties emo, back to Thom Browne, with a dash of 1950s housewife while picking up on some Rad Hourani/Rick Owens/Ann Demeulemeester vibes. Is it bad that's it's clearly borrowing directly from other designers' recent collections? Somehow, it seems to transcend falling into pastiche/blatant rip-off. It carves out its own aesthetic while incorporating familiar elements. For instance, that cardigan was something I (Mike) owned in my more emo days (BLOGGER SHAMESPIRAL).

I (Susie), am just so ready for more men to embrace their INNER WITCH, their MANWITCH, if you will. And no one is serving up manwitch quite like Non. Once we cruised over to the Non website, I found the holy grail of collection intro statements.

From intro to A/W 2010 collection, The Golden Dawn:
The Golden Dawn was a magical order founded in Great Britain during the late 1880's during a noticeable expansion of interest in occultism and secret societies...
...Those few that were successful in practice [ed. note: practicing fucking magic] during this time rose to its most inner order... The majority who attempted to do so became victims of their own creative imagination, believing they were more than human, united with the higher and divine.
The Golden Dawn inevitably came to its fall, taking just fifteen years to splinter into fragments. Concepts of magic and ritual at the center of contemporary traditions, such as Wicca and Thelema, were inspired by The Golden Dawn.
selections from the golden dawn:
"single breasted suit jacket, wide leg suit trousers, TAPESTRY APRON" (emphasis our own)



"SILK SHAWL, DRAINPIPE TROUSERS, OPERA PUMPS"




"cashmere wide neck sweater, club collar shirt, CHROME NECK PIECE"

Vanilla Ice meets The Crow

um, that's my Gap jacket! (See!)


***

If you're as stoked on Non's paganism as we are, you should definitely head over to the site and read up on the intro to the S/S 2011 collection (top half of this post), named Alchemia Mysteria, a tiny bit of excerpts we can't help but include below to entice you:
Alchemy is one of the oldest arts of mankind... 
The alchemist believes in the fundamental unity of the cosmos, believing in the possibility of transmutating one element into another. Nature is one, and one is the universal substance. Creator and creation are but two aspects of the same substance.
...They therefore created a god in their own image, a man naturally endowed with divine consciousness. Man as a shape shifting, androgynous organism that forgot its origin. 
Read the rest here.

September 29, 2010

Layers, Change, and the Remains

I will always be a fan of a black and white polka dot. In the past few years it seemed a childish contradiction to my attempts at looking like a grownasswoman. I got rid of the polka dot skirt that I wore to death in high school long ago. I don't regret it; it was like a relic of an era I'd rather forget. And I used to wear it in the most twee ways possible... think barrettes and pigtails and Keds. 

But when I saw this tight sweater for like, no money at a secondhand store I "had to have it," just like when I spotted the skirt with the same print at a thrift store like a DECADE ago (holy shit getting older never ceases to shock me).

The challenge when I got home was like: "Do I regret this purchase?" I'm super stubborn, so I said, "No!" Apparently I also talk to myself. Well, that's true, because it's what I'm doing right now, in public no less! So I didn't regret it, but it was very high-school regressive of me... I knew something good could come of it even though tight-fitting, short-sleeved, not-cropped synthetic looking sweaters are not exactly anyone's idea of rad right now. Which is another reason I bought it.

The answer is always layering.
(Aside: My bangs are very Norma (diner lady) in Twin Peaks here, and I'm so OK with it.)

The pants and overcoat are unashamedly Gap sale purchases. I fucking live in the Midwest, so cut me some slack, you cool coastal readers...Woah, sorry for the defensiveness!! I really love this coat. The black blazer and red Coach bag are from Buffalo Exchange. The boots are my most notable DIY from this summer.

Even though I've updated my use of the black polka dot into a decidedly non-emo/Lolita styling, some things never change. My keds back in high school were bright red, just like the bag. I like thinking about what I've had continuity with even as I've matured. Being 25 has been like being 15 all over again at times. I'm so filled with angst and confusion and want to run away from life. I know more but am still lost so much of the time. 

But it's also true that I know who I am and love my adult life. This isn't about nostalgia. My 20s brought great confidence along with the new confusions. Noticing some continuity through dramatic changes helps me convince myself I'm not schizo. For example, I just had a conversation yesterday about how Ayn Rand is my ideological opposite when a friend posted about loving her work. I hadn't thought about ole Ayn in so long; I had to try hard to recall why I don't agree with her, and it reminded me that I wrote an essay for high school English criticizing her philosophy. The style can mature but the principles remain. I like that.

September 28, 2010

Block Shots

Now that I've cleaned out my closet and shored up my personal style, the focus shifted to unique, quality pieces to anchor my fall look. That's why I picked up this color-block shirt by Native Son from Blackbird.




I remember seeing this piece for the first time on Blackbird's website back in the spring. It jumped out at me even then, but the price made it an impossibility. So I put it out of my mind until last week, when it popped up on their blog at a reduced price that I couldn't pass up.



It's simple, yet unique. A single, wide stripe of black across the midsection cuts the shirt into three parts. The color on either side is a nice light brown/dark tan--a shade that was noticeably lacking from my life, and perfect for fall. When I ordered it I was hoping that the black stripe would be high enough that there'd still be a bit of brown showing when tucked in. I wasn't disappointed.


The size small is a perfect fit--the neck button closes, the arms are cut slim and high, and the shirt tapers beautifully. Those with very trim frames should take note--they even carry an extra small size (still on sale online last I checked.) Seeing these pictures now, I could probably shorten the sleeves. But the wrists close high enough that I almost don't have to.


September 26, 2010

A "New Look" Redux



Sometimes you put on a garment because it looks like it was made for you. In the case of this jacket: the waist is perfectly my size, the fit of the sleeve is awesome, the vintage silk construction is top notch, and the details are poppin... er, sorta. I just like the swoop-shaped pockets a lot. Also, the asymetrical collar (due to a missing button) is pretty nice. I like the length. I like that it's vintage. The only real issue I have with this jacket is that it's from a style era that I more or less detest from a theoretical standpoint. You might be able to guess why if you take a close look at this quote:
"I wanted my dresses to be constructed, molded upon the curves of the feminine body, whose sweep they would stylize," Christian Dior proclaimed in his autobiography. This concept was the Paris designer's aim when, in the spring of 1947, he launched a new line of women's clothing that stunned and delighted the rest of the fashionable world. "Corelle," Dior dubbed the line of post-war clothing (naming it after the botanical term for the frail petals at the center of a flower), though fashion magazines in Europe and the U.S. quickly and adeptly nicknamed the Dior collection "The New Look." (citation)

Gross. Why bourgeois women were flocking to appear as frail as a flower is another story for another day. For now I'm more interested in how to make this jacket work in a way that absolutely counters the above notion of femininity. Which is to say, you'll never catch me with an A-line skirt puffing out underneath.

And yet, the "New Look", in pretty damn close to its original form, is all up in our faces once again thanks to Marc Jacobs' work for Vuitton. The image to the right is floating around magazines helping the uninformed masses know about Dior's importance in creating this "iconic" look.

I will admit the iconic status of this moment in design, but I imagine had I lived during the 50s, I would have longed for the loose flapper dresses or the badass power suits of the previous 30-40 years. This might have seemed to a number of women like a regression then, just as it seems regressive now, even when rendered in leather. This lady would be super uncomfortable if she wanted to eat a burger, which she's probably convinced herself she does not want to do, ever again.

So what am I doing with this jacket, a perfect relic of this era and this attitude toward the female form, when I have such antagonistic feelings toward what it suggests? Well, that brings me back to the beginning. Item appreciation can go a long way, and it's not that the actual intricately constructed individual garments from this era all represent female oppression. Many A-line skirts, brocade jackets, and nipped-waist blouses are made from beautiful, quality fabrics and can be recycled into outfits that transcend the confines of this era. I am not one to get costumey with my vintage. I like to think about how an item will work into my own, personal standards for dressing.

Blah blah blah... 
Anyhow, here's my outfit. I basically channeled Japan. Collarless silk jacket + collarless long sheer blouse + enormous pants = way more comfort than homegirl up top in the hat and gloves hitting the QVC pose.

Blouse and pant detail because why not?
The blouse is from Max Studio from like 3-4 years ago (turning out to be  one of the few smart purchases from that era), the wool pants are secondhand H&M (one of the best H&M pieces I own and plan to actually keep... had these for 3-4 years too, and still get excited about them each time fall arrives), Via Spiga oxfords, Vintage jacket.


September 23, 2010

2 4 1

This is a look incorporating a few of my fall fashion resolutions and an influence I've been wanting to highlight this season.


The sweater-as-vest was inspired by Umit Benan's fall campaign. An extra layer between the shirt and jacket never hurts, and I was instantly taken with the idea of a deeply-cut vest as an intermediate texture.

I'm also digging these Stanton slim fit pants by the Crew (picked up on sale, 'natch.) To the uninitiated, I almost appear to be a normal-sized human. (Hate to burst your bubble, I'm not.) Look at those beautiful, slim, deceptively-long legs.


One thing I liked in particular about this outfit was its versatility--remove the jacket, untuck the sweater, and BAM:

...suddenly I've got the soft shoulder unstructured jacket look. Only with a cardigan. Which works great for me because finding a soft-shoulder that fits my frame is nearly impossible. This sweater does the trick nicely--notice the cut is closer to a blazer than most cardigans.

Channeling a little David Lynch here but I didn't want to go too stark so the chinos and desert boots tone it down a bit. See? Two outfits in one!


Perhaps you noticed my sweet Johnny Depp sunglasses too? Pretty cool, right? What's really cool is that they're my mom's clip-ons from the 90's. Let's let that sink in for a second.

Instant blog cred.

September 22, 2010

BLACK PUGS

Ok, I know I just posted about I Love You magazine a few days ago, but this marketing video just came along and is basically like a 36 second glimpse into my psyche. It speaks to one of my truest loves: black pugs, probably my most favorite living creatures ever. ENJOY!


Jade Prinzess from christiane boerdner on Vimeo.

September 21, 2010

Blanketwear

I've talked about my love for wearing a blanket before. I've also discussed the merits of these pants. Today I brought these things together.

I started my day in this outfit for a lunchtime meeting. 
Shirt, pants, belt all secondhand. Shoes: Dolce Vita wedges.

These pants have been with me for 2-3 years now. I don't wear them very frequently, but never tire of them and am pleased whenever I do get them out.

Anyhow, after my lunch, I headed back to the Buffalo Exchange for the second time in under 5 days... I just pulled out my winter storage from under the bed this weekend and discovered some more shit that I needed to rid myself of. This time I used the store credit and picked up 2 items. Here is one of them:
Neutral blankie jacket!

Though I don't show you here, it actually does have a couple buttons on the front. So, not entirely just a blanket cut down the middle. I can already think of so many different ways to wear it... Under a structured jacket... belted in the front... A reader mentioned that many of my clothes can be worn different ways. I guess I'm just a sucker for clothing with built-in options. I blame infomercials.